Faith is the bedrock for many older Cambodians. Buddhism is the main religion in Cambodia and Vietnam and there are many temples. Generally they have four main functions:
2) Stupas where people come to pray and cremate their loved ones, etc.
3) The temple also has hospital facilities but folks are using it less as more medical centres are opening locally.
4) A place of refuge for people who need food and somewhere to sleep.
The tradition of sending young boys to the temple for part of their education continues.
The monks rise early to pray. They have breakfast and then study for a couple of hours. Afterwards, they take their bowls and collect food and alms from the local people. The temples, although built by the Government, have to be self-sustaining. There is no state funding. The monks have to be to be back at the temple by 11.30 a.m. at the latest to eat lunch. No food is consumed after mid-day. In the afternoon there is more studying and praying.
Boys can stay as novice monks until they are twenty. At twenty they are no longer considered novices. Monks can leave the temple at any time. Some go back to help their families, particularly those who are from a rural background. There are a few Buddhist nuns but these are far fewer and they are usually older women who perhaps have nowhere else to go. Some women shave their heads and become nuns if something bad has happened in their life, such as divorce or domestic violence.
Temple of Wat Hanchey, Cambodia
Temple of Kompong Tralach, Cambodia
This temple was reached by travelling in an ox-cart.
It is not the most comfortable way to travel. Each ox or cow is worth around US $500. Not surprising they looked very well looked after.
Buddhist Temple at Prek Kdam, Cambodia
There is a primary school on the same site as the temple. We were invited into the classroom of a Year 3 group of children. There was around thirty-six children in the class. They sang us a welcome song and then sat very quietly while our guide chatted to their teacher. There is a shortage of schools in Cambodia so half the children go to school in the morning from 7 a.m. until 11 a.m. and the afternoon shift starts 1 p.m. and finishes at 5 p.m. making it an extremely long day for the teachers. Around 92% of Cambodian children attend primary school. While schooling is free parents have to find the money for the uniform and writing materials. The can place a heavy burden on the poorer families in the more rural communities.
As children reach high school age more tend to drop out as there are fewer of these schools and they have to travel further, thus increasing the cost to the families. Similarly attrition rates continue at university level. 40% of the country is under 16; the government is going to be hard-pressed to ensure their young people get the education they need to help Cambodia grow and develop.
Jade Emperor Pagoda, Saigon / Ho Chi Minh City
This temple was built in 1909 in honour of the supreme Taoist god the Jade Emperor or King of Heaven, Ngoc Hoang. We visited on 1st January 2018, along with the rest of Saigon. As we approached the temple the first sensation is the powerful smell of incense and then the overwhelming noise of people laughing, chattering, praying,chanting. All the incense burners were in action and as we got closer we were aware of a significant change in temperature.
The roof of the temple is covered with tiles. There are papier mâché statues from both the Taoist and Buddhist traditions inside. I found the dual-faith concept interesting.
The crowd is at it is thickest deep within the temple directly in front of the Jade Emperor. The incense burners are working overtime and burning incense sticks were being waved around in all directions. Worshippers also brought flowers, particularly roses and chrysanthemums, and fruit as offerings. Again, as always when I am in Asia, I was struck by the good natured jostling and banter that was taking place in the large mass of people. No-one was getting bent out of shape and everyone was enjoying themselves.
Pagoda of the Celestial Lady, Hué
We reached the pagoda via our own personal dragon boat. Outside the Pagoda of the Celestial Lady is is a seven storey tower built by King Thieu Tri dedicated to Buddha.
Next to the Thiên Mu Pagoda is a large bell which can be heard as much as 10 km away. The monks rise at 3.30 a.m. to sound the bell as part of their daily rituals. Unfortunately this caused problems with the local community and people complained about being awoken so early. A new bell was cast that does not have the same range so now residents get to sleep undisturbed.
The Thiên Mu Pagoda was built in 1601 by Nguyen Hoàng, ruler of central Asia. Local legend has it that that an old woman known as Thiên Mu (celestial lady) foretold that a lord would erect a pagoda on the hill. To get into the pagoda you have to pass through a gate with three entrances. The left-hand entrance represents the past, the middle one represents the present and the right-had one represents the future. Each is protected by a fierce-looking guardian.
Within the pagoda complex is a monastery which takes in novices. When the novices are ordained their head is fully shaved and three blobs of incense are placed on their skulls, which form scars, as a mark of their ordination. Thich Quang Duc was a monk at this temple. On 11 June 1963 he drove to a busy intersection in Saigon.
In protest at President Diem's persecution of Buddhists he set light to himself and burned to death. Duc's hear remained intact. It was considered holy and placed in a glass chalice at Loi Pagoda in Ho Chi Minh city. Duc is n ow regarded as a bodhisattva.
Duc was born in Hoi Khanh in Central Vietnam in 1897. He was one of seven children. At the age of seven he entered the monastery of Thiên Mu Pagoda and took his novice vows at the age of fifteen. At the age of twenty he was ordained. The car he drove to Saigon is kept at the Pagoda.
Assembly Hall of the Cantonese Chinese Congregation (Hoi Quan Quang Dong), Hoi An
This temple was founded in 1885 by the Chines overseas of Guang Dong in order to worship patron gods and their ancestors The structure combines wood and stone architecture with a variety of highly decorative motifs.
The large incense burners are labelled with blessings and good wishes for the ancestors of the worshippers.
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